Touring the Grand Canyon of Oman - Jebel Shams, Oman
Oman
During a work trip to Dubai and Abu Dhabi, I had a free weekend and planned a separate trip to Oman. A friend mentioned he had heard good things about Oman. I did not know much about the country, but once I started looking into the landscape, it was clear it was worth a visit. It is also home to the Oman Desert Marathon - maybe something for a return trip!
One of Oman’s most prominent natural features is what is often referred to as its Grand Canyon. I have run and hiked in other large canyon environments, including the Grand Canyon in Arizona, Waimea Canyon in Hawaii, and Australia’s Blue Mountains. I wanted to see how Oman compared.
This trip centered around three runs. Two were in the mountains near Jebel Shams. The third was a simple but quiet run along the coast in Muscat.
How I Got There
We flew into and out of Muscat, arriving from Dubai and departing to Abu Dhabi. The inbound flight was on FlyDubai, which made the whole thing simple and affordable. Muscat International Airport was one of the quietest major airports I’ve been through in a long time. It is large, modern, and almost serene.
One thing that stood out immediately was how good everything smelled. It turns out scent diffusers are everywhere, and there’s a real appreciation for fragrance in the Middle East. It’s subtle, but it sets the tone the moment you arrive.
I rented a car from Enterprise, and the process could not have been easier. The staff were genuinely friendly. They were easily the most welcoming rental car attendants I’ve dealt with anywhere. I ended up with a Land Rover, which I was very glad to have later.
The drive from Muscat to Jabal Shams took about 3.25 hours. Along the way, we made the essential stop for running fuel: Twix bars, gummy bears, and several liters of water. The last 45 minutes of the drive turned into dirt roads. While technically passable with a regular car, it felt much better to be higher off the ground as the road got rougher and narrower.
Jebel Shams – Hike to the Summit (W4 Route)
We arrived at Jebel Shams Resort in time for dinner. I chose it because of how close it was to both hikes. There are a couple other resorts in the area as well. Both dinner and breakfast were buffet-style with a wide range of options.
For breakfast, the standout was the waffle with pistachio cream syrup. I had my typical carb load and caffeine: waffles, chocolate syrup, croissants, and plenty of coffee.
After breakfast, we drove about 10 minutes from the resort to the W4 trail parking area and started the hike around 10 a.m. The terrain is immediately rocky. At no point did it feel easily runnable, but it also wasn’t the worst terrain I’ve dealt with. It’s more about steady movement and paying attention to foot placement.
The weather was nearly perfect. Cool, clear, and dry, with a light breeze. Even in winter, though, the sun is no joke as the UV index is high, and it’s easy to underestimate. I wore shorts and a t-shirt, but carried long sleeves and a wind-breaker just in case. I had 2.5 liters of water, which was fine for winter conditions, but would not be enough in summer. Along the trail, I did notice two locations with water caches which I’m guessing many need in the summer.
The climb is long and deceptive. There are several false summits, and while the trail is mostly marked, it’s easy to drift off course because the path isn’t always obvious across the rock fields. Still, the views are constant with deep canyon walls and wide open space that feels closer to the Grand Canyon than anything else I’ve seen outside the U.S. It was only in the final push to the summit that any rock scrambling was necessary, but nothing too technical.
I did reach the summit, but the descent took longer than planned, and I ended up coming down after dark. A strong flashlight is essential here, not just a headlamp. It is very helpful to have a light with a focused beam to catch the reflectors marking the route. Without that, route-finding at night could be slower.
W6 Balcony Walk
The next morning, we started the Balcony Walk around 10 a.m., which ended up being perfect timing. We took our time on this one, stopping often to take in the views and hiking all the way out to the pool at the end of the trail.
The views into the canyon were excellent the entire way. The trail itself is the highlight. It’s narrow and literally perched on the side of the canyon walls, carved into the rock in a way that feels both exposed and deliberate. In the morning, the sun lights up the canyon walls across from you, bringing out layers and texture.
At the far end, we hiked up a short side trail. It added some extra elevation, but there wasn’t much payoff for the additional work.
On the return, the timing worked in our favor. Much of the trail was shaded, and gave us a different perspective on the same views. Along the way, we ran into several friendly hikers, including a couple from the Netherlands we had seen the day before on the W4 route.
While parts of the Balcony Walk could technically be run, it’s not a place to lose focus. A misstep in the wrong spot would be serious. We chose to fast-walk the entire trail, which felt like the right balance between moving efficiently and actually enjoying where we were.
Beach Run in Muscat
We drove back to Muscat later on Sunday to avoid having to make an early morning drive to catch our flights. We stayed in a hotel right at the beach and close to the airport.
I went out around 7 a.m. for a final run along the beach in Muscat. At that hour, the shoreline was nearly empty. A few walkers, a couple of joggers, and one woman sitting cross-legged in the sand, quietly watching the sun rise over the water.
The run was easy and unstructured, more about moving than pace. I spent some time walking out along the large stone breakwaters, which were cool to explore and gave a different view back toward the city and the open water.
It was a simple, quiet way to end the trip. A moment of stillness before heading back to the airport and straight into the work week.
Conclusion
Oman turned out to be an ideal place for an ultrarunning destination. The logistics were easy, the people were welcoming, and the nature was excellent. The runs near Jabal Shams delivered a sense of scale and quiet that is hard to find elsewhere. It is a destination that rewards taking your time, moving deliberately, and letting the environment shape the experience rather than the other way around.
To read about my other Grand Canyon experiences, visit these links!
